I'm not sure why it took me over ten years to discuss lash extensions, but thanks to some recent press inquiries I have decided it was time to discuss and address a few different things about lash extensions to set the record straight. I'm only going to hit the highlights as there is plenty of information on the internet. What I am publishing here is my experience of lash extensions after 10+ years and over 25,000 applications.
WHAT ARE LASH EXTENSIONS?
Rather than tell you what they are I thought it would be better to SHOW you what they are.
I only personally use .10-.15mm wide and 6-11mm long lashes. Anything longer or thicker can cause long-term damage (at least for the customers I see in New York City. My CA customers might be able to handle 12mm).
WHY GET LASH EXTENSIONS?
There are dozens of reasons why one should get lash extensions. The most important thing to keep in mind is lash extensions are an upgrade from mascara. If you want a more dramatic lash then the next best option is to wear lash flares or lash strips (temporary lashes).
DO LASH EXTENSIONS DAMAGE?
A BIG FAT NO! If lashes are done correctly they can be less damaging than mascara (less bacteria, weight, removal, eye tugging and rubbing, etc). ALL of my customers have almost doubled their lash thickness since seeing me and many customers have been with me since 2004!
Most of my customers like to take a Biotin supplement, which can increase hair growth and strengthen the lash. Many other places permanently damage the lash because they either put lashes on that are too heavy for the customer OR they don't know how to maintain the lashes. Maintaining or refilling the lashes is an entirely different skill that requires a different precision and is where the damage can slowly accumulate months down the road. I don't get into suggesting lash growth formulas for too many reasons.
HOW LONG DO LASH EXTENSIONS TAKE AND HOW OFTEN SHOULD I COME BACK?
A good full set of lashes takes about two hours (no less than 1.5 hrs). Since lashes shed about every 6-8 weeks I like to see customers at about 3 weeks when about 35% of the lashes have naturally shed out. I do have a few 2 week clients that have high stress lives, need to have perfect lashes for their jobs or shed abnormally quickly. Subsequently those clients also tend to see their nail techs and colorists more frequently as well.)
SHOULD I DO LASH EXTENSIONS?
The public used to call me the "Lash Nazi"(likened to Seinfeld's Soup Nazi) back in 2006/07 because I used to turn away so many potential lash customers after Vogue did the big article on me about Lash Extensions. About 40% of the customers I have ever seen don't make good lash customers. They either have a thyroid condition that causes them to lose their hair too quickly, past lash damage, not enough lashes, weakened lashes, eye allergies, glaucoma, blepharitis or other health/eye issues. If you have any of these issues you are not a candidate.
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A TECHNICIAN?
Your technician first and foremost should either be a current state licensed esthetician or cosmetologist working in a reputable salon or spa. Their licenses are supposed to be hanging up in their room or over their work station. You should also be able to look them up online within a state licensing database. Any reputable and safe lash glue company will require those licenses to buy their glue.
You also want a technician that is certified with the brand they are using and has been practicing for no less than a year. Even though I used to make lashes for a living and could put on lash extensions without any issues, it still took several cycles to understand what happens to a lash and how to refill/retouch the lashes so that the lash line remains healthy.
Keep in mind licensing and certification does not guarantee you will not get damaged, but it will hopefully insure safe glue if they choose to purchase from a reputable company and hopefully your technician is going for regular advanced education instead of learning lashes that can't be learned via youtube.
When it comes to your eyes and the health of your lashes you want a technician that does lash extensions for a living that is not offended or secretive about their glue when you ask which brand of glue they are using. If your technician does nails or cuts hair and then takes you into a back room to do an occasional lash, you may not getting the best person for the job.
All of my customers get aftercare instructions and products as do most customers of properly trained technicians to ensure that you are creating a safe and healthy environment and care for your lashes.
WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT A GLUE?
Your licensed and certified lash technician should be using medical grade glue. I use Novalash Platinum Bond adhesive. I have tested other glues to see what is on the market, but I always end back with Novalash. Make sure the technician has the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) for the glue on file and that they match. We are all required by law to have these documents on hand in case there is an emergency. Many of the glues at cheaper salons can be industrial grade glue from either the automotive or construction industries (tire glue, super glue, etc). It's one reason a glue can burn or lashes can clump together long after the lashes have been applied. It is important to know there are many adhesives on the market for stylists to use and that the adhesive your technician is using has been purified and safety-tested and the company is transparent about the ingredients.
WHAT ABOUT FORMALDEHYDE IN THE GLUE?
Most of the expensive glues (which is why price matters) have negligible or no formaldehyde in their formulas according to their MSDS. Mascara actually has a higher amount of formaldehyde in their formulas. Even baby wipes have formaldehyde in them. Don't be so quick to listen to hype from the press when it comes to ingredients. Acrylates, carbon and other ingredients in the medical or cosmetic grade glues can also be found in your regular drugstore cosmetics.
WHAT GLUE DO YOU USE?
Again I use Novalash Platinum Bond glue. It is patent-pended and formulated by NovaLash. It gives me the strongest bond, it likes oil, it holds up well in the heat and elements and the effect of the glue is thicker (which makes lashes look like they already have mascara applied).
FINAL THOUGHTS:
The days of lash extension horror stories are SO 2006 and are fewer and far between at least in the major cities. I have never personally met or know anyone who has lost their vision from lash extensions. I've had calls from other salons looking for remover because eyes were glued shut back in 2006. Out of 25,000+ personal applications in 10+ years I have had fewer than 10 reactions (mostly from external allergies), with only two of them with prolonged discomfort because the customers disregarded coming in as I had instructed them to. That is a phenomenal track record.
Because it is not possible for the glue to drip in the eye like lash tinting or perming solutions, I feel very comfortable performing this service on my customers. I trust my suppliers. There is NO single, nationwide certification board for lash extensions. Hopefully on a state level there will be more regulation like the 320 hour lash course in Texas, but once again eye safety is generally not at risk. The greatest risk is permanent lash loss by technicians that apply lashes that are to heavy (or don't apply on a single eyelash) for the consumer. If your lashes look like Kim Kardashian's after your lash application, find another technician before you lose your lashes over the long term.
P.S. I do not use gel lash pads to separate the bottom lashes from the top. I use a special lash sticker. I used to use the gel patches and later found they are not meant to be worn more than a half hour and can cause severe irritation close to the eyes.
P.P.S. I choose not do the bottom lashes as I do not believe it is safe to have the tools we use around open eyes. Esthetically I think it looks like bug legs on the eyes anyway.
